If you had to learn one thing about tuning your edges, it should be edge beveling. The point of beveling your edges is to back the effective portion of them away from the snow.

You file your base edge at an angle away from the base which backs it away from the snow, and then file your side edge at the same angle, in turn, maintaining an edge that is still 90 degrees. The edge hasn’t been dulled, it’s just been moved into a position that’s less likely to catch. Leaving you less likely to scorpion.

If you run your board right out of the wrapper, think about it like a hockey skate—the edges will engage with the slightest bit of pressure, and jibbing will be more than sketchy. If you completely round your edges off it’s going be perefect for jibbing. But, your edges are going to be much less responsive—it’s going to take a lot more pressure to dig your edge in and turn, and your edges—or lack there of—will be rendered pretty much useless in icy conditions.

If you spend most of your time freeriding, or if you are riding in icy conditions, a one to two degree bevel on your edge would be good. If you ride a lot of park where you’re more likely to catch an edge on a box, rail, sketchy landing et cetera—a two, or more likely, a three degree bevel is where it’s at.