HOW TO SETUP
YOUR BOARD
It's simple. All you need are a couple Phillips head screwdrivers (size #2 and #3), a tape measure, and some patience. Here's how to piece it all together.
STANCE +
Are you regular (left foot forward) or goofy (right foot forward)? If unsure about your stance, run and slide in your socks on a slick floor. Whatever foot you favor in front is how you should roll. Center (equal tip and tail) your bindings on the board if you plan on freestyle riding, or set them back (more nose than tail) for freeriding. Use a measuring tape or the board's reference stance for guidance.
WIDTH +
Measure the length from your kneecap to your heel. This is your suggested stance width; it should be slightly larger than your shoulders. Width is whatever's comfortable, though, so play around with it.
ANGLES +
Angle your front foot slightly more forward than the rear. (A basic stance is 15 degrees up front and zero in the back.) If you plan on riding switch, set negative angle on the back foot for a subtle duck stance. Like width, experiment with your angles and find what feels best. After you have your stance, width, and angles figured out, hand-tighten your binding screws with a #3 Phillips screwdriver.
BOOT FIT +
Lace up your boots and step into your bindings. Crank the straps down snug, but not until your toes go purple. Is the middle of each strap within the mid-line of the boot? If not, adjust the length of the strap to fit. Scope the side profile of your boot in the binding, too. If this isn't even, adjust the binding's heel cup and/or toe ramp to center the boot over the board.
GET THE RIGHT GEAR FOR YOU
Whether in a shop or on the Internet, sifting through the mass of new snowboarding gear can be daunting—but buying a proper setup is not. Just ask yourself what type of riding you do (or want to do), and follow this simple advice for buying your new kit.
Common Rule: Stiffer (generally more expensive) boards, boots, and bindings are very responsive and supportive—making them ideal for fast, aggressive riding or freeriding. On the other hand, softer gear is more forgiving—better suited for learning the basics, jibbing, and stretching out grabs. There's also plenty of gear that sits right in the middle and does it all.
BOOTS +
Start here. Boots are the most crucial part of your setup—it's very important to buy a pair that fits well. Try them on at a local shop and avoid the Internet gamble. A new pair of boots should fit snug (without pressure points)— holding your heel firmly in place while your toes are just a hair away from touching the end. Remember: boots generally pack out a quarter to a half size, so start with your normal shoe size or smaller. Using comfort as your guide, go with the boots that feel the best.
BINDINGS +
When shopping for bindings, pay attention to compatibility and size. Make sure they fit your boot and also fit on your board. Burton boards and bindings have differing mounting systems, so double check before you buy.
BOARD +
Pick your snowboard by your weight, riding style, and budget. Most manufacturers provide sizing recommendations, including weight ranges and suggestions according to the flex of the board. The length and shape of a board is more related to riding style—smaller for freestyle riding, larger for freeriding. Keep in mind that alternative camber boards should be ridden two to eight centimeters smaller than a regular camber snowboard. Freestyle-board decks usually have a twin shape, while all-mountain or freeride boards generally have a directional shape.
SHAPE UP: A LITTLE LESSON ON CAMBER
Never has the snowboard been offered in so many different shapes, accompanied by so many confusing names. These new board shapes give you options and excel in specific conditions and certain riding styles. Whatever your fancy, take a minute to consider the attributes of each, right here.
REGULAR CAMBER +
The classic. Built with a
continuous, arcing shape from
contact point to contact point,
creating a predictable, reactive
ride.
Best for: Speed, stability,
pop, carving, response.
Weaknesses: Lack of
forgiveness, edge hooks, more
work to float in pow.
Popular models: Burton
Aftermath, Capita Stairmaster
FLAT/ZERO CAMBER +
The middleman. These designs
have a completely flat profile
from contact point to contact
point.
Best for: Consistent flex, not
too aggressive, not too loose,
easier to keep up in pow.
Weaknesses: A less
responsive area between the
feet, slow to initiate turns, slight
washout on lips and landings.
Popular models: Nitro Rook, Salomon Riot
ROCKER CAMBER +
Rocker camber (reverse)
boards are built with a U-shape
of varying degrees. It can be as
subtle as a small rise in the tips,
or a drastic bend throughout
the entire length of the board.
Best for: Effortless presses,
powder float, playfulness,
learning.
Weaknesses: Instability,
unpredictability, and loopedout
landings.
Popular models: K2 Gyrator, DC PBJ
CAMBER HYBRID +
These boards are designed
with the best attributes of both
camber and rocker. They have
rocker between the feet and
camber outwards, vice versa,
and any mix of the two.
Best for: A blend of
conditions and terrain, one
board quiver.
Weaknesses: Strange fl ex
patterns, weird balance points,
wavering edge hold.
Popular models: Lib Tech Attack Banana, Forum Youngblood DoubleDog
SHAPES
TWIN: A 100-percent symmetrical snowboard. The nose and tail are the same shape. The stance, flex, and sidecut are centered, and the board rides the same regular or switch.
DIRECTIONAL: The stance, flex pattern, and sidecut are set back from the center. These boards generally have a slightly longer nose than tail. They are designed to ride best while going forward, but they also perform when riding switch.
DIRECTIONAL TWIN: This tricky term describes a deck that's either twin in shape, yet directional in flex, or vice versa. Depending on the manufacturer, it could also describe the mounting location. Research the brand for the specifics.
TAPERED: These boards have an exaggerated, directional shape that's designed to perform in powder. The stance and sidecut are generously set back, and the nose is significantly larger than the tail to provide buoyancy.
WIDE BOARDS
Wide (W) & Mid-Wide (MW): These boards are built wider across the waist to accommodate a bigger boot size and eliminate toe and heel drag. Wides are recommended for riders with size 11 or larger boots. Mid-wides are built slightly wider for riders with size 10 to 11 boots and riders looking for extra float and stability in a board. Look for these listed alongside the lengths.
Splitboards: MLook for this icon, it means the model is also offered as a splitboard.
CAMBER
REGULAR: These boards are constructed with traditional camber. Laying base down, the profile arcs up with its highest point at the middle of the board.
ROCKER: The middleman. These designs have a completely flat profile from contact point to contact point and exhibit subtle characteristics of camber and rocker.
FLAT: These boards are constructed with traditional camber. Laying base down, the profile arcs up with its highest point at the middle of the board.
COMBINATION: These boards are designed with the best attributes of camber, rocker, and flat designs. They could have rocker between the feet and camber outwards, vice versa, and any mix of the three.
LENGTH
The overall measure of a snowboard from nose to tail. Measured in centimeters.
WIDTH
Board width is the distance across your snowboard at the waist or middle point. Width is also measured in centimeters.
2012 GOOD WOOD BOARD TEST: The Go-To Board Guide For Every Rider, Style, And Budget
Thirteen years running, the TransWorld Good Wood Snowboard Test continues to be the most comprehensive snowboard review in the industry. While technology keeps transforming, our Good Wood gathering puts it to the test and delivers the best of it—judged by riders just like you. This year we stormed the Unbound Park and 3,100 vertical feet of freeriding at Mammoth Mountain, California with diverse and expert crew of eighteen testers and rode 'til we were spent. We tackled it all under a bevy of conditions during a one-week window and critiqued 450 boards on 17 characteristics from nollie pop and flex, to stability, sidecut, and more. The results are 40 best-in-class park and all-mountain boards for both women and men. It's no ultimatum, but it's a damn fine guide to finding the best board for you.
THE PROCESS
We hit the Unbound Park at Mammoth Mountain, California, with a diverse and expert crew of 18 testers and rode 'til we were spent. Jump lines, jib lines, 3,100 vertical feet of freeriding—we tackled it all under a bevy of conditions during a one-week window. Each run is an investigation into all the new tech, shapes, and flex. Every board is critiqued on 17 characteristics from nollie pop and flex, to stability, sidecut, and more. All said and done, the crew grinds about 450 boards down to 40 choice decks. After long days of hard riding, countless laps, and nearly a thousand scorecards crunched, we bring you the 2012 Good Wood results. Enjoy!
